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R1200gs Oil Filter Tool

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by taihoransdes1970 2020. 3. 1. 12:07

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Sump guard fixings - 10mm fixings 8Nm, 13mm fixings 19NmOil Drain Sump Plug & Crush Washer (seal)You can get away with reusing the crush washer but for the sake of saving a few pennies you're better off buying a new one when you get your new oil filter.Oil filter location and oil filter removal toolOE R1200GS Oil Filler Cap & 'O' Ring (seal)Alternative to OE item - Wunderlich Alloy Oil Filler CapBefore you drain the old engine oil the engine needs to be warmed up so the old oil will drain more thoroughly. BMW recommends taking the bike for a ride but the oil will be warm enough to change/drain if you just start the engine and let it idle for a while until the first two or three bars show on the engine temperature cockpit display readout (CARE: BMW Boxer engines are air/oil cooled and the manual explicitly states to ride off immediately since idling for any length of time (eg. 10min) carries the risk of overheating.;-). Remember that the exhaust pipes are now hot!.Remove the sump guard, fixed with two nuts and two bolts (curiously BMW chose to use 3 different parts for this, 13mm nuts, 13mm bolt, and a 10mm bolt!)R1200 / R1200GS sump drain plug (centre of photo)R1200 / R1200GS engine oil filter locationUndo and remove the oil filler plug using the tool from the bikes tool kit (Touratech and others sell a tool if you don't have one), this allows air to enter the engine more easily as the oil drains and so the oil will drain more quickly. Note the rubber 'O' ring seal that most likely will remain seated in the filler opening.

You can leave it there or remove it for cleaning. If you do remove it, remember to put it back!Place a suitable container under the sump and then remove the oil drain plug - partially undo with the Allen key socket and ratchet and then finish by hand whilst pushing upwards so that the drain plug stays in place until completely undone at which point 'whip' it away quickly so your hand doesn't get covered in old oil. (in the interests of H&S I suppose I ought to say that you should be wearing latex gloves as used engine oil is carcinogenic!).

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A biker friend of mine has three Beemers. He does all of the mechanical work and maintenance on his machines.

One of his bikes is an R1200RT. He told me he uses a 2004 Dodge Neon non-turbo charged oil filter on his. So, I tried it for 6,000 miles with no issues. My brother, a fellow enthusiast, is leery of using this filter as there might be a difference in the performance of the oil pressure valve not functioning at the same stats as the Neon filter. I know I can purchase filters from Beemer Boneyard as well as other places. My biker friend says the BMW OEM filter is made by Deutch or Emgo.

Bmw r1200gs oil filter removal tool

My brother says they are made by Mahle. With all of the outsourcing that happens in the world of mechanics I have not doubt all three have or have had their turn at producing the filters. My issue is that the price is jacked up when BMW puts it's stamp on the filter. Though paying close to $20 for an oil filter rankles me my peace-of-mind is worth being shafted if there is any possibility of unequal performance between the BMW filter or one made by a different company that still meets OEM requirements.So, let me cut-to-the chase! Anyone else out there with a camhead have any input or experience in this matter? There is one thread in the Similar Threads pane below that has some comments on this general issue.

2014 Bmw R1200gs Oil Change

Seems the issue of finding cheaper filters cuts across all BMW model lines.probably for every motorcycle brand! Personally, I use OEM filters because it's a critical item for the life of the engine.

But as the older thread discusses, are the aftermarket filters specified as being suitable for you bike? If the application chart doesn't list your model and you have some oil related problems down the road, you will have no recourse for any warranty claims. BMW does not let every manufacturer 'take a turn' at making their component parts.

Your brother is providing much more accurate info than your biker friend. If you want to split the difference financially between overpaying for peace of mind and throwing all caution to the wind accepting anything with the same thread and seal diameter, then take the completely safe Beemer Boneyard route.Thanks for your input. I am leaning back towards an OEM filter. Peace-of-mind is more important than saving a few bucks. Or, maybe buckets of bucks if engine gets damaged.Ride safe. BMW does not let every manufacturer 'take a turn' at making their component parts.

Your brother is providing much more accurate info than your biker friend. If you want to split the difference financially between overpaying for peace of mind and throwing all caution to the wind accepting anything with the same thread and seal diameter, then take the completely safe Beemer Boneyard route.I've been using Mahle filters from Beemer Boneyard for years with no issue.Much cheaper than buying from the dealer.YMMV. I try not to fight success. I have noticed the Mahle support sticker on the side of NASCAR vehicles, vehicles that are run under extremes.Many manufactures don't make their own filters so, if I can find the same filter available from the company that made it, I'll use it.If I do change, I like to cross by number and look up by application- just to make sure they are the same.

On my Cummins powered Dodge, the cross to Wix doesn't match to the Wix application listing- so I stay with OEM.There are lots of pictures of filter cutaways, claims of drain-back valving and extended life. I figure that an vehicle manufacturer wants to take trouble with an oil filter out of the warranty equation- using something they don't feel will cause them trouble.YMMVOM.